Glen Nevis, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter
The grandest valley beneath the tallest mountain.
The grandest valley beneath the tallest mountain.
The last time we visited Glen Nevis was way back in Autumn 2014, which was our very first time in the Glencoe/Lochaber area. This was in the prime of my HDR days.
Almost 10-years on, we returned with greater fitness and better vision. We elected to take the valley bottom riverside walk from the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre all the way to Polldubh falls and back. A solid 12–13km hike.
The section from the visitor centre to Polldubh falls was definitely not fun in places; the trail often became indistinct, with areas of sludgy bog and slippery mud. Nevertheless, the views were simply astounding wherever you looked, and we were blessed once again with glorious weather.
Photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–3.8 zoom and Laowa 9mm f2.8 ultra-wide lenses. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed using RNI Films’ Kodachrome film profiles, and finalised in Affinity Photo 2 for iPad.
Glen Nevis, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
A relatively new and modern bridge crosses the River Nevis from the visitor centre and leads you along the riverside trail. A lot of people take this route to begin their ascent up all 1,345 m (4,413 ft) of Ben Nevis.
Following the riverside trail, the view down the glen opens up and reveals the massive shape of Sgùrr a’ Mhàim (1,099 m/3,606 ft). Its name means “rocky peak of the rounded hill”.
Despite the bright winter sun, it was still cold enough in the shade to freeze the water running down the valley sides.
After navigating a meander in the river, the neighbour of Sgùrr a’ Mhàim becomes visible: Stob Bàn (999 m/3,278 ft), which means “white peak”.
Nearing Polldubh falls, the path climbs up and away from the river. Doing so revealed this delightful composition towards Sgùrr a’ Mhàim, which I had to nab.
An abandoned, white-washed cottage. I don’t know if it’s used as a mountain bothy now or not.
Polldubh falls, with upper Glen Nevis in the distance. Quite an arresting sight, and developing a powerful waterfall.
Sgùrr a’ Mhàim is often mistaken to have snow around its peak. In fact, it’s usually white quartz you can see, which gives the mountain its lighter capped colour.
Heading back up the glen from the falls, the craggy shoulders of Meall an t-Suidhe (711 m/2,333 ft) are drenched in late afternoon winter sun.
I couldn’t resist this road shot featuring the two towering giants at the head of the glen. The road was quiet enough to allow us to walk alongside it all the way back to the visitor centre.
One last look back at Sgùrr a’ Mhàim before returning the visitor centre.
A challenging walk, in places, but a grand experience nevertheless.
Did you enjoy these photos?
Kirkoswald, Cumbria, Winter
Welcome to the ancient village of Kirkoswald.
Welcome to the ancient village of Kirkoswald.
The day ahead looked to be rather changeable, with unpredictable downpours combined with gusty winds. Our best bet was to head to Northern Cumbria. So why not spend a day with Dad?
We all ventured to Kirkoswald for a gentle stroll around the area. The village is timeworn, with many buildings still standing since the 1600s and 1700s. Even older—to the south of the village—is St. Oswald’s Church, with parts of it dating back to the 12th century. The church is, in fact, where the village gets its name: “Kirk” is the Old Norse word for “church”. It is thought that the body of Saint Oswald, King of Northumbria, was taken through the village.
Southwest of the village is Eden Bridge, a beautiful red sandstone construction. It dates from 1762, with repairs made in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Thankfully the day was largely cooperative, weather-wise, and we all enjoyed some lovely photography walking around this ancient parish.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. All images 95% made in-camera using Øyvind Nordhagen’s Modern Documentary Fujifilm recipe, with cropping and framing in Pixelmator and Darkroom.
My Dad’s lovely little farm cottage, in the middle of nowhere of Northern Cumbria.
The road that passes by Dad’s cottage.
Dad set up a load of bird feeders outside the cottage, home to many species that he’s always happy to take photos of.
We parked at a small car park just before the Lazonby Eden Bridge. This signalled the start of our walk into Kirkoswald. The River Eden was rather high and fast.
On the Kirkoswald side of the main bridge that spans the River Eden are these “dry arches” that were, nevertheless, flooded.
She’s a beaut of an 18th century bridge.
I whipped on my 9mm ultra wide lens to capture the whole span of the bridge as well as the lovely cloud textures that were forming.
One last look back along the entire span of the bridge before carrying on towards Kirkoswald.
Evidence of Storm Arwen’s vengeance on trees across the UK.
We took the permissive footpath from Eden Bridge into Kirkoswald, then through the church gate to follow the old cobbled path towards St. Oswald’s Church.
The church is in a beautiful setting.
There she is, St. Oswald’s Church. The building’s unique in having a 19th-century bell tower on top of a hill 200 yards from the church itself.
The main entrance to the church. Historic England specifies this timber frame thus: “North timber-framed gabled porch of c1523”. So 500-years old.
Small, and old, but humble.
People are still buried in this church’s graveyard. I spotted a gravestone for January 2021. I’m sure there are conditions/restrictions that need to be satisfied for burial here.
Love the wrought iron works around the churchyard.
A rather grand entrance to an estate of some sort.
Crossing over the small bridge that spans Raven Beck. Ancient red sandstone buildings everywhere.
Not sure what these folk were doing along the shores of the beck… but I had to snap them.
One of many buildings in Kirkoswald dating from the 18th century. This one’s datestone reads 1713.
The Crown Inn, still very much in operation. It’s an old coaching inn, again from the 18th century.
On t’other side of t’road, Lisabet inspects the menu for the Featherston Arms.
Love old buildings that are wrapped in branches and vines.
Victorian-era road signage, which still references Cumberland County Council.
Out of the top of Kirkoswald, the views across the Eden Valley are extensive.
The village square. Kirkoswald gained a Market Charter in the 13th century, and hosted markets at the village square for centuries. This then moved to the Lazonby and Kirkoswald Railway Station after the opening of the Settle–Carlisle line in 1876.
Heading back to Eden Bridge via the permissive footpath, I spy a simple composition as the storm clouds build up above.
A high and fast-flowing River Eden from the top of Eden Bridge.
Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria, Summer
Of all the times I’ve visited Kirkby Lonsdale, I’ve never thought to properly photograph it.
Of all the times I’ve visited Kirkby Lonsdale, I’ve never thought to properly photograph it.
So… welcome to Kirkby Lonsdale! This historic town, situated on the edge of Cumbria near the borders of both Lancashire and North Yorkshire, was where my lovely Lisabet grew up. Kirkby is a truly beautiful place, which has attracted a lot of money in recent decades. Quite the difference compared to its more humble origins.
Kirkby Lonsdale is one of the few Cumbrian towns mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 AD, where it was recorded as Cherchibi (“village with a church”). This would suggest the presence of a very old church, which is indeed the case. The earlier construction was rebuilt by the Normans in the 12th century, and parts of the church, now known as St. Mary’s, still survive from this era.
The town gained a market charter in 1227 AD and an outdoor market has been held on Thursdays ever since. This long-held tradition of trade and markets is evident in some of the street names in Kirkby Lonsdale, such as Horsemarket and Swinemarket.
After a particularly lazy start to our Sunday, we ventured around Lisabet’s home town and the surrounding countryside to get some miles under our belt and some photographs in our cameras. The day was another glorious summer fare.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using two of my prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2 and a Laowa 9mm f/2.8. The images were 80% made in-camera using a customised Velvia film simulation, with minor edits afterwards in Lightroom and Affinity Photo.
This is Devil’s Bridge, with more people swimming in the Lune than I’ve ever seen before in Kirkby Lonsdale. The bridge was built around 1370 AD, probably by the monks of St. Mary’s Abbey in York. It once carried traffic over between Skipton and Kendal, but was closed to traffic in the 1930s as it was too narrow for modern vehicles.
So many people swimming in the Lune and enjoying the Cumbrian summer. Some more respectful of the environment than others.
This part of the Lune around Devil’s Bridge is very popular for outdoor swimming, owing to its easy access, deep pools, and clear water.
People of all ages, genders, and races were enjoying a paddle and a swim in the river. And why not.
The verges of the riverside were lush with flowers and vegetation.
We took the riverside trail alongside the Lune, heading towards the Radical Steps.
This point marks the end of the riverside trail. The Lune was very low, which afforded us with some excellent reflections to photograph.
Heading up the Radical Steps. They lead down from the churchyard of St. Mary’s church to the riverside. Built in 1820 for a Dr. Francis Pearson, who had apparently developed a reputation as a political radical, the steps were constructed to divert the footpath away from his garden.
The view that John Ruskins once described as “one of the loveliest views in England, therefore in the world” (lol, funny man). It is a nice view, I’ll grant him that. It became famous after J. M. W. Turner painted it.
If Ruskin’s View is looking northeast, then this is the view southeast from the same spot. I would argue that it’s more interesting, especially as you can often make out the flat top of Ingleborough (723 m/2,372 ft) in the distance.
The riverside trail towards Underley has some rather beautiful trees.
The last of this year’s blossom of rhododendron. Pretty but invasive, and has a tendency to take over a woodland.
Out of the woods and into the open countryside, heading towards Underley. A rather perfect tree helped make this composition easy. If you were to draw any tree, this would be that tree.
Lisabet and I spotted some seriously massive bracket fungi on some of the trees on the edge of the riverside trail.
This tree would be a little harder to draw from memory, but only because of how fantastical its shapes and twists are.
This is the Underley Business Centre, revamped after a £250,000 investment with the Underley Estate. But once it was the Underley Works and Home Farm, workshops for more than 100 tradesmen who were employed on the estate, from foresters to joiners.
A new footpath connects Underley Business Centre with Kirkby Lonsdale, helping pedestrians to keep out of the road. Happily, it also offers lovely views towards the Barbondale Fells.
Roughly halfway between the Underley Business Centre and Kirkby Lonsdale is this gorgeous little building, so out-of-character compared with the rest of Kirkby.
A little bit of internet investigation reveals that this is Underley Lodge, a former gatehouse to the Underley Estate, now private tenanted accommodation.
The old primary school, St. Mary’s. This was also where Lisabet spent her primary school education. In fact, during her last year at primary school there, she spent a good chunk of it helping staff move books from this building to the site of their new school.
Another one of Kirkby’s famous scenes. This is the view down Mitchelgate towards Gragareth (628 m/2,060 ft).
Looking down Market Street from the bottom of Mitchelgate. Kirkby town centre is bonny.
St. Mary’s Church, probably the oldest building in Kirkby Lonsdale and ultimately what gave rise to the town’s name.
Parts of this church have survived since its Norman construction in the 12th century.
St. Mary’s churchyard is well-maintained and packed with flowers and trees alike.
The view down Mill Brow, which was once the industrial heart of Kirkby Lonsdale.
Halfway down Mill Brow is this incredible house. This is the Old Manor House, or 14 Mill Brow, most of which was built in 1700s (though apparently there are elements of the property that are older).
Looking south down Main Street, the heart of Kirkby Lonsdale town centre. Relatively few people about, but then I suspect that’s because most folk were swimming in the Lune.
Pandemic Peregrinations: Brigsteer, Cumbria, Winter
After the recent wonderful wintery scenes of snow in and around Kendal, things have somewhat changed.
After the recent wonderful wintery scenes of snow in and around Kendal, things have somewhat changed.
Storm Christoph has arrived over the British Isles, as well as all the flood warnings. Whilst we’re not expecting Storm Desmond-levels of rain, there will be enough to induce mild panic and anxiety within us Desmond-survivors.
Thankfully, before the storm arrived, we had a clear day on the 17th so Lisabet and I gleefully utilised it by enjoying a 12 km hike.
We took the quiet country lanes from near the Westmorland General towards the delightfully idyllic village of Natland. Then we carried on towards the River Kent, crossing it at Hawes Bridge (and stopping for photos of the gorge, of course), carried on over the A591 and back up the fellside towards Brigsteer.
This was a part of the local area we’ve nearly properly looked at before and we were happily surprised. We essentially tracked the road that scanned northwards alongside the back of Scout Scar, with some beautiful scenes along the way. We mentally bookmarked this area for when spring and summer finally arrives.
I hope you enjoy this walk too.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using a Samyang 35mm f/1.2 lens. Developed using one of RNI’s Kodachrome film profiles.
I always enjoy this view down Kirkland from Highgate in Kendal, and rarely resist an opportunity for a photo. The scene almost has a timeless quality to it.
Some yarn bombing alongside the River Kent has definitely seen better days.
All in a row…
Arriving at Natland we slowed down for photos of the idyllic village and its old buildings. This big old building was once Natland Hall Farm, a relatively large farmhouse.
Riders and their horses near Hawes Bridge enjoy the lack of rain.
The River Kent was full and raging at Hawes Bridge, where it turns on its side and gouges out this little limestone gorge.
As we ascended the fell side towards Brigsteer and the back of Scout Scar, we passed through Low House Farm and snapped a few photos. I saw this old barn door and pondered the passage of time.
Once we ascended Whetstone Lane we joined Brigsteer Road and followed it northwards back towards Kendal. Here the views really opened up, including this scene of the winding dry stone wall. And you know what I’m like we a good dry stone wall…
Another variation of the above composition, picking out some of the flora in the hedgerows.
A beautifully wooded lane. One to come back to in spring and summer.
Following along the back of Scout Scar we came across these rather noisy cows, bellowing at each other.
I love her hair…
Heading back into Kendal. It’s hard to make out in the photo but in the distance we could see the snowy tops of the Kentmere fells.
Another one of my favourite Kendal scenes, heading down the steep Beast Banks back into Kendal town centre.
Kendal clock tower, still being repaired and thus still stuck at 12pm.
Deepdale, Lake District, Winter
Winter has arrived.
Winter has arrived.
We’ve been watching as temperatures in Cumbria have steadily dropped from the tens to near freezing point.
By around the 3rd December snow started to fall across the high fells of the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, followed by some ground level snow on the 4th.
Lisabet and I ventured straight into the Lakes on the Saturday to see if we could get some snowy mountain action whilst the snow was still around.
A lot of it had melted in the dale bottoms, resulting in some delightful cascades and waterfalls, but we were happy to see a fair bit of snow still clinging to the higher peaks of the Lake District.
We hiked into Deepdale, a small tributary valley off Patterdale, just north of Kirkstone Pass. The nice thing about Deepdale is you’ll rarely find a lot of people there. The not-so-nice thing is that the hiking can be laborious, as there’s not much of a path through the valley and there’s a fair bit of bog to navigate.
But what awaits you at the head of Deepdale is the magnificent hulking form of Greenhow End, a beautiful fell.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using both my Samyang 35mm f/1.2 and Laowa 9mm f/2.8 lenses. Photos shot using a customised Pro Negative Standard film profile.
Booting up. Love that anticipation and excitement when you’re getting ready for a hike, thinking about what scenes and light awaits you.
There were plenty of Herdwicks around the valley bottoms, fattening up for the winter. Probably all now pregnant, too.
Deepdale is quite a desolate and featureless valley, save for the wonderful crags at its head. There are a few glacial erratics lying about, though, that you can play with compositionally. I found this large boulder with a clear crack running through it, which I used in this focus-stacked photo to point towards Greenhow End.
Another group of rocks and boulders housed this little pool that I framed in another composition towards Greenhow End. A single frame shot at f/22 with my ultra-wide 9mm Laowa lens.
A tighter composition of the magnificent Greenhow End, with some gorgeous late-afternoon winter sun light.
I found another large boulder with some interesting moss, lichen, and trackline markings.
Another boulder I found had this very interesting crack running right through that, from certain angles, sort of reminded me of PacMan…
Heading back out of the valley I found more interesting arrangements of boulders to utilise compositionally, also positioning Deepdale Beck as a leading line towards Angletarn Pikes.
A tighter 35mm composition of Angletarn Pikes allows me to also features some of the old barns and farm houses of Wall End.
My lovely Lisabet, capturing a composition of one of her favourite stone bridges.
Herdwicks have such characterful faces.
Teesdale Waterfalls, North Pennines, Autumn
On the final day of our mini-break we decided to enjoy a proper good hike around Upper Teesdale.
On the final day of our mini-break we decided to enjoy a proper good hike around Upper Teesdale.
We’ve been to Upper Teesdale a few times before, mostly for quick excursions to the epic High Force waterfall. But now we’re fitter and healthier, we felt capable of more, so we parked at the Bowlees Visitor Centre and took in lots of waterfalls around Upper Teesdale.
Upper Teesdale sits within Country Durham near the border with Cumbria, and is also entirely within the North Pennines Area Of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). As well as enjoying the protections of being with in the AONB it’s also a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest), for its diverse range of habitats and being one of the most important botanical areas in Britain; Upper Teesdale features a vast mixture of nationally rare flora, including some that are essentially relicts of the last glacial era.
As cool as all this is, Lisabet and I were here for waterfalls and vast open landscapes. Within a relatively small area we were able to visit Summerhill Force (in Gibson’s Cave), Low Force, High Force (from above), and Bleabeck Force. The area is a veritable treasure trove of watery delights!
All photos shot on a Fujifilm X-T2 with a Fujinon XF 18–55mm f/2.8–4.0 using a customised Classic Chrome film profile.
A few metres from the Bowlees car park we chanced upon our first waterfall, which we initially thought was Summerhill Force itself. A pleasant little drop.
After trekking back to the Visitor Centre, then across the road and down into the woods, the canopy opens up and we are treated to the spectacular site of Low Force.
In actuality, half a kilometre upstream, this is Summerhill Force, which drops over a large limestone overhang known as Gibson’s Cave.
The rock here is Whin Sill, the exact same rock found at the head of High Cup Nick (you can read about our hike up to this epic valley here). The rock is extremely hard and resists erosion, forming columns and tessellating block pavements.
Not one of the tallest waterfalls, at only 18 ft high, but Low Force is certainly powerful and a damn impressive site.
Around the falls, the woods start changing colour. Autumn is coming.
You can more clearly see the rigid column structures that the Whin Sill rock is known for. Fellow hikers in the background provide a good sense of scale.
What I love about Low Force is that it’s very easy to get right next to the falls, and really feel the roaring power of the water as it crashes down, carving out chunks of land.
The upper section of Low Force. Just a delightful scene, on what turned out to be a beautiful day of clear light.
Soft light in the woods around Low Force.
After crossing Wynch Bridge (carefully, it’s a suspension bridge built in the 1830s), you can catch site of another set of cascades with Low Force in the distance.
Low Force, this time from its southern banks, with soft light highlighting the central pillar that separates the falls.
On our way to High Force I catch some Swaledale sheep mucking around on a raised boulder.
The epic High Force, and my first time photographing the waterfall from above. The falls plunge a sheer 70ft through the hard Whin Sill rock in the area. A truly awe-inspiring site.
Looking straight down the sheer 70 ft drop of High Force. Definitely a weak-knee moment.
From above High Force and looking back into the gorge the waterfall has been cutting for thousands of years.
We sat right next to the Tees above High Force for our picnic lunch. The red-brown colour in the water is from all the peat the river carries from the moorland of the North Pennines.
Families enjoy the sites and sounds of the Tees, hopping between boulders or pausing for food and drink.
Beyond High Force the landscape of Upper Teesdale really opens up, and we can make out some of the peaks of the North Pennines.
Our final destination in Upper Teesdale: Bleabeck Force.
It was lovely to see so much heather (Calluna vulgaris) in Upper Teesdale.
A dead Juniper tree (Juniperus communis) enveloped by a boulder.
A somewhat rundown farmstead, still apparently in habitation.