Ambleside, Lake District, Winter
Temperatures have plunged.
Temperatures have plunged.
The nigh persistent rain of November and December has given way to a sub-zero climate and clearer conditions. Much better.
With a bright Saturday forecast, Lisabet and I ventured into the heart of the Lake District and major tourist hotspot, Ambleside. We wanted to do two walks: one, a small circular of Stock Ghyll Force, the other bigger hike up to High Sweden Bridge.
Despite being in the middle of a blisteringly cold winter in the Lake District, Ambleside was as busy as ever. This town never gets any rest.
All photos taken on my Sony α7ii using my SMC Pentax-M 28mm F3.5 and SMC Pentax-M 55mm f2.0 prime lenses, plus my Vivitar “Series 1” 70–210mm f2.8–4.0 zoom. RAWs developed in Lightroom, edited in Photoshop.
Ambleside, Lake District, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
A misty shot from the top of Stock Ghyll Force. Made by stacking five landscape 28mm shots, top to bottom, for a wider field of view.
The classic view of Stock Ghyll Force, currently in its more barren winter finery.
After stopping for delicious hot brews at Force Cafe, we followed the trail back down to the town. By the side of the road, this still life-esque scene revealed itself to me, and so quickly I quickly nabbed a composition.
From the town centre, it’s easy enough to find the route to the High Sweden Bridge trail. Given the direction of the low sun, we opted instead to take the trail anti-clockwise, which we’ve never done before, to get more side light.
The old packhorse bridge itself, with my Lisabet providing a nice colour contrast as she strolls across it. As I’ve mentioned on this site elsewhere, the name “High Sweden Bridge” might seem unusual, given this is located in the Lake District, England. The “sweden” aspect originally comes from the Old Norse sviðin (pronounced “swee-thin”), the past participle of svíða, meaning “to burn” or “to singe”. In this context, it refers to the clearing of land by burning.
Looking up Scandale, admiring the light beams scanning across the face of High Pike (656 m/2,152 ft).
Heading back down the higher eastern side of the Scandale valley, I equipped my 70–210mm lens for some tight and distant compositions. Fully zoomed in, I was able to pick out the mist clearing from the summits of the Langdale Pikes, on the right, and Bowfell on the left.
My 70–210mm also has a macro mode, which I used to try and capture these beautiful and tiny Cladonia pyxidata lichen.
Lake District sheep get all the best views.
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Tarn Hows, Lake District, Summer
Summer is upon us.
Summer is upon us.
It’s been a month without any rain, and the temperatures are now consistently in the late teens/early 20s. Rivers and lakes are starting to dry up.
Before things got too crispy and baked, we took a free evening out to Tarn Hows via Tom Gill. Always a good walk, and provides an alternative route to the popular destination that is Tarn Hows. It involves hiking up alongside Tom Gill, occasionally veering off the path to take in a couple of waterfalls. However, they were both almost completely dry.
Tarn Hows was looking incredibly lush and resplendent in its summer finery. One of those evenings that makes you glad to be alive.
All photos taken on my Sony α7ii using my Sony FE 28–70mm f3.5–5.6 OSS zoom lens. RAWs developed in Lightroom for iPad, then edited and finalised in Affinity Photo for iPad.
Tarn Hows, Lake District, Summer 2023 by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
From the upper path around Tarn Hows’ eastern side, my eye catches this fence as a leading line down to the tarn and the Langdale Pikes beyond.
Gorgeous evening light bathes the land and Coniston fells in golden light. In the shade, Herdwick sheep continue their blissful nibbling of the growing grass.
The upper path soon joins the lower one, where we would return back around Tarn Hows. The Grasmere and Fairfield fells peak above the woodland around the tarn.
A panorama, made from 5 vertical images stitched together left to right. I wanted to get all of the dead trees in the frame with the path leading into the distance.
We exited Tarn Hows west via a minor road, and then too came off this road onto a public bridleway, giving us glorious valley views of the Coniston fells.
The road that takes us back home.
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Great Langdale, Lake District, Summer
It has been far too long since I’ve been to Great Langdale.
It has been too long since I’ve been to Great Langdale.
In fact, from what I can make out, the last time I visited Great Langdale was November 2020. That’s bad.
And a shame. Great Langdale is one of my favourite places in the whole of the Lake District.
Thankfully I have some time off whilst I transition between jobs, and the UK summer is in full swing. It was time to reacquaint myself with some of the Lake District’s most recognisable peaks.
Great Langdale did not disappoint. My goodness.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm ƒ/2.8–3.8 zoom lens. Images made 90% in-camera using the Velvia film simulation, finished off in Affinity Photo.
I managed to get some parking at the LDNPA’s official car park, right in the heart of the Great Langdale valley. Merely stepping out of the car park offers you scenes like this.
A true Lake District scene: towering craggy fells, stone walls and cottages, green grass, Herdwick sheep.
There were plenty of ewes and their lambs freely milling around the roads and lanes in the valley.
The first leg of the hike I wanted to explore was to head east towards Oak Howe. This part of Great Langdale is heavy with summer meadows and at this time of the year they’re brimming with flowers. Plus, you get panoramas like this.
I threw my lens wide open and got down low to snap the Langdale Pikes high above the fields and fields of buttercups.
Oak Howe cottage, with Oakhowe Crag towering above, itself a subsidiary top of Lingmoor Fell.
One of my favourite spots in Great Langdale, shot near Oak Cowe cottage next to Great Langdale Beck. The Langdale Pikes looking as epic as ever.
For the second leg of the hike, I traced my steps back west, capturing compositions of the Langdale Pikes along the way.
The fist-like crags of the Langdale Pikes to the right, Bowfell to the left.
Whitegill Crag stands protectively over the valley floor and its inhabitants.
Rossett Farm with Thorn Crag and Loft Crag above, like axe heads thrust into the sky.
The western aspect of Great Langdale features its highest fells, accessible via the fell in the middle of this photo known as “The Band”. To the left is Crinkle Crags (859 m/2,818 ft) and to the right is Bowfell (902 m/2,959 ft).
Some kind of rose, I think? I couldn’t tell you which one but it were pretty, just sitting there in the hedgerow.
As I head closer to Stool End Farm, Pike o’ Blisco (705 m/2,313 ft)—south of Crinkle Crags—makes its presence known.
A pied wagtail (Motacilla alba yarrellii) sits atop a drystone wall long enough for me to focus and nab this shot.
A side valley that branches off the main Great Langdale valley, Mickleden, features this great wall of rock known as Rossett Crag, peaking at Rossett Pike (651 m/2,136 ft).
The road to Stool End Farm, which marks the beginning of many popular ascents up to the likes of Bowfell, Crinkle Crags, and beyond.
The western aspect of the Langdale Pikes peaks at Pike o’ Stickle (709 m/2,326 ft), before dropping sharply down to the valley floor.
Heading back east towards the car, this part of the Langdale Pikes is very popular with rock climbers who fancy tackling some tricky climbs.
I love this place.
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High Sweden Bridge, Lake District, Spring
It was nice to get a bit of altitude.
It was nice to get a bit of altitude.
I think the last time we hiked the High Sweden Bridge circular was back in June of 2020, just as the UK was starting to come out of the first COVID-19 Lockdown. Wow. Time flies, eh?
With this weekend due to continue its favourable weather conditions, we followed Saturday’s hike around Brough Castle with a longer, more strenuous hike up to High Sweden Bridge in Scandale, above Ambleside. I tell you something: it was so good to finally see the Lakeland fells clearly.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Fujinon 23mm f/2.0 and my adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0 prime lenses. Images developed in RNI Films’ Velvia 100F film profile.
On this occasion we elected to park at one of the free lay-bys before you get into Ambleside proper. This would give us a few extra 1,000 steps or so.
Wansfell Pike (486.9 m/1,597 ft) above Ambleside, clear as a bell in the beautiful light.
We soon found the steep lane that climbs up into Scandale, and the views quickly improved from “This is pretty” to “Bloody hell!”
On the way up, a cute little Robin (Erithacus rubecula) made its presence known to us atop a drystone wall. Didn’t fly or away or anything. Happy to chill and let us take photos.
Soon, High Pike came into our sight, lit up like a beacon in the spring Lake District sun.
Higher and higher the trail went. Astonishingly clear views towards Rydal Water, Loughrigg, Silver How, and the Langdale Fells were enjoyed.
My lovely Lisabet, perched on the ancient packhorse bridge known as High Sweden Bridge.
After crossing High Sweden Bridge, it was time to ascend up the Scandale fell side in order to find the ridge that let back down into Ambleside.
The full extent of Scandale opened up before us. On the eastern side of the valley, a minor footpath continues up the valley to link with Scandale Pass, which takes you onto Kirkstone Pass should you so wish.
When crossing the stile, I paused at the summit of the climb to snap this obvious composition of the drystone wall leading all the way to High Pike.
The Coniston fells come back into view after finding the open ridge back down into Ambleside.
The wonderfully craggy profile of the Langdale Pikes, Bowfell, and Crinkle Crags.
A minor sheep track branches off the main trail, heading towards Nab Scar. The skyline of the fells is impossible to resist a photo.
One last peek at the Langdale Pikes before we drop down the fellside into Ambleside.
The long ridge of Wetherlam sinks beneath the bulk of Loughrigg as we descend.
What a fantastic and bizarre looking tree.
Near Low Sweden Bridge, a flock of young Kendal Rough Fells peacefully graze on the new grass.
What a crackin’ day.
Hodge Close Quarry, Lake District, Summer
Time for something a little different.
Time for something a little bit different.
The Lake District is obviously world famous for its natural splendour; the lakes, fells, tarn, waterfalls, and everything in between. But beneath the surface of this picture of paradise lies thousands of years of man-made work.
Mining has been a feature in the Lake District landscape for hundreds of years. Copper, graphite, lead, slate… you name it, it’s probably been found and mined for. One of the bigger historical industries in Lakeland was slate mining; I say “historical”, slate mining still occurs at Honister Pass, inside Fleetwith Pike.
Slate was mined extensively in and around the Coniston area, too, particularly in the 19th century when Lake District slate was in demand for “roofing Britain”. Three miles north of beautiful Coniston, one can find one of the biggest leftover workings of slate mining in the whole of the Lake District: Hodge Close Quarry.
Lisabet and I have been meaning to find and explore Hodge Close Quarry for quite some time now. Lisabet’s been before, but many moons ago. I, on the other hand, have only ever had Google Images and Pinterest to go on. We parked up in lay-by just north of Yew Tree Tarn and follow the easy trail northwest, clearly signposted for Hodge Close Quarry. Along the way, one can enjoy frankly spectacular views of the Langdale Pikes and Central Fells of the Lake District. This was an aspect of the hike I had no idea of!
Arriving at Hodge Close Quarry, and taking careful note of all the warning signs, we were greeted by a cavernous scar in the earth; sheer walls dropping 150 ft into a dark pool, itself a depth of around 150 ft. What a wonder; and what work man has performed!
We spent a good couple of hours around the quarry, shooting compositions in the gorgeous evening light. And there was no hardship in retracing our steps back to the car, as the light just better and better.
One of the most beautiful evening walks in the Lake District I’ve had for a while.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images made 75% in-camera, with RNI Film’s Kodachrome film profile applied afterwards.
The way up to Hodge Close Quarry, via a bridleway known as Smithy Brow. Probably literally named.
I couldn’t tell you what this piece of farming tech is called, but it certainly looked long abandoned.
The first of many delightful scenes available from Smithy Brow. Taking in Lingmoor Fell (469 m/1,539 ft), Pike of Blisco (705 m/2,313 ft), and Bowfell (902 m/2,959 ft).
The view looking towards the northeast, taking in Seat Sandal (736 m/2,415 ft) and Dollywaggon Pike (858 m/2,815 ft).
That wonderful towards the northwest once again, shot near one of the disused farm barns alongside Smithy Brow.
Freshly clipped (sheared) Swaledale sheep, enjoying the grassy offerings around High Oxen Fell.
The area between High Oxen Fell Farm and Hodge Close Quarry is densely wooded and filled with ferns.
Just a lovely scene involving the Lake District’s famous dry stone walls and a knobbly coppice.
Nearing the quarry, we pass through a load of holiday cottages that enjoy spectacular views of the Coniston fells. They were probably all mining buildings once.
The first sight you see of Hodge Close Quarry. Quite the drop, eh? 150 ft down to the dark pool below. A young couple perched on top of the crag gives you a sense of scale.
Thankfully, with my 9mm ultra-wide lens at hand, I was able to capture immense compositions that could feature both the dark pool and the sheer walls of the quarry, all at once.
We scanned along this western edge of the quarry, shooting along the way as the light gradually faded along the top of the crags.
It’s easy to feel weak in the knees when capturing the sheer drop down…
We skirted around the southern and eastern edges of the quarry, nabbing compositions of the chasm with the Langdale fells in the distance.
This is the view the aforementioned young couple would’ve enjoyed.
We joined the Holme Fell trail northwards, looking to reconnect with the Smithy Brow bridleway back to the car. Lush carpets of fern everywhere gives a real “jungle” vibe to this scene.
The setting sun was providing beautiful deep tones of orange when peaking through the canopy and hitting the trees.
Peeping through the head-height ferns for this composition of Black Crag.
My lovely Lisabet, always the perfect accompaniment to any hike.
High Oxen Fell Farm, now property of the National Trust courtesy of Beatrix Potter. Probably built in the 1600s.
The nice thing about retracing the route back was enjoying the views in reverse with even better light.
Low Oxen Fell and Great How, with the gentle sunset light pulling out the contours of the landscape.
What a scene! What light!
Basking in the golden glow.
Layers and layers.
Great Langdale, Lake District, Autumn
Do you know what one of my favourite areas in the Lake District is?
Let’s take a break from my recent run of Isle of Skye images.
Do you know what one of my favourite areas in the Lake District is? It’s Great Langdale.
We recently invited my Dad over to come stay with us, as he’s in our support bubble and lives on his own. On the Saturday I took Dad to explore Great Langdale, which he had never seen before. It’s good to know there’s still places in the Lake District I can let my Dad experience for the very first time.
It is an awe-inspiring place. Great Langdale is a fairly flat-bottomed valley that features a northern wall of some of the finest and most recognisable crags and peaks in the Lake District: the Langdale Pikes.
Judging from the amount of photos, I think Dad found it inspiring too.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using both my Samyang 35mm f/1.2 and Laowa 9mm f/2.8 lenses (with some additional help from Dad’s 55-200mm f/3.5–4.8). I used a customised Provia Standard film profile.
It was prime tupping season in the valley bottom of Great Langdale. Plenty of Herdwick yows (ewes) around with one or two tups (rams) doing their… duty.
We experienced some wonderful play of light streaming across the Langdale Pikes. I borrowed Dad’s 55-200mm lens to really zoom on those famous crags. Stickle Ghyll, the series of cascades and falls to the right of the photo, was in full spate.
There were plenty of puddles on the trail, which enabled to shot a composition of the Langdale Pikes I’ve been after for a long time.
More beautiful late afternoon light, picking out the contours and crags of the Langdale Pikes.
To the east of the Langdale Pikes is a wall of fells peaking at Broad Crag and Raw Pike, with a beam of light shooting across the face of the wall.
The trail closed in on Great Langdale Beck and provided me with a lovely leading line towards the glowing tips of the Langdale Pikes.
Nearer the Pikes the swollen beck was reflecting some wonderful light bouncing off the red fells above us. I closed the lens up to get this longer exposure of the flow of the river.
Here’s something I didn’t know about in Great Langdale! Near the Stickle Ghyll Barn Dad and I spotted a small stile that allowed one access over the fence towards these wonderful cascades. I whipped out my 9mm ultra-wide lens for some compositions of these cascades and Whitegill Crag above.
It’s not the Lake District without some idyllic cottages scattered about the valley.
Herdwick sheep are so bloody cute.
A final panoramic look back at the Great Langdale valley; Langdale Pikes to right, and Crinkle Crags to the left.